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Best Relics in Slay the Spire — Tier List

Updated 2026-10-15T00:00:00.000Z Source Community consensus and in-game mechanics; exact figures to be verified against the game's own data By
Data status: This page explains mechanics and decision rules. Where a precise number matters we say so and mark it, rather than guessing.

Best relics in Slay the Spire is a question about decisions rather than a shopping list. This ranking scores each relic on consistency, energy, scaling and deck shaping, so a tier shows how often a relic is the right pick.

How this tier list is ranked

Four criteria set every row. Consistency is how often a relic helps without setup. Energy is how much extra play it unlocks each turn. Scaling is how well it holds up in Act 3. Deck shaping is how far the relic bends the cards you draft.

A relic that pays off in one narrow build drops a tier. A relic that pays off in every fight climbs. Boss relics sit on the same scale, because each one changes every fight after you take it.

Rank reflects community consensus, not a promise. Your deck still decides whether a relic wins a run. Use the table to narrow the choice, then check the relic against the hand you are holding.

The relic ranking table

Scan the table first, then read the tier notes below for the reasoning behind each group.

TierRelicWhy it ranks there
SSnecko EyeDraws a bigger hand each turn, and random costs reward expensive cards.
SRunic PyramidRetains unplayed cards, so setup turns stop wasting the cards you hold.
SDead BranchTurns every exhausted card into a new one, which fuels exhaust decks.
SIce CreamUnspent energy carries over, so a quiet turn pays for a loud one.
SCoffee DripperExtra energy every turn, at the price of rest sites you can plan around.
SMummified HandPlaying a Power makes a card free, which speeds up a power-heavy deck.
APhilosopher’s StoneExtra energy, and every enemy starts the fight with Strength.
ASozuExtra energy in exchange for the potion slots you give up.
ACursed KeyExtra energy, and opening a chest adds a curse to your deck.
AFusion HammerExtra energy, and no card upgrades at rest sites.
AGambling ChipA free redraw of your opening hand in every fight.
AShurikenThree attacks in a turn build Strength for the rest of the fight.
AKunaiThree attacks in a turn build Dexterity, so block scales with your turns.
AThread and NeedleAdds armor at the start of combat, before you play a card.
BAnchorBlock on turn one, which softens an opening hit.
BBlood VialHealth at the start of every fight, which adds up over an act.
BBag of MarblesApplies Vulnerable to the enemy group when a fight begins.
BVajraA small Strength boost that every attack uses.
BData DiskFocus for a Defect orb deck, which lifts each orb you channel.
BPreserved InsectReduces elite health, which makes elite fights cheaper.
BMeat on the BoneHeals after a fight when your health is low.
CTiny HouseSpreads small gifts across the run, so it rarely decides a fight.
CRegal PillowOnly helps when you reach a rest site with health to spare.
CDarkstone PeriaptPays out in health when you take a curse, which is a narrow plan.
CCeramic FishAdds gold when you gain a card, and gold alone wins nothing.
CWrist BladeLifts 0-cost attacks, so it needs a deck built on cheap damage.

S-tier relics

These relics change how you build from the moment you pick one up. Snecko Eye and Runic Pyramid rewrite your hand, because both change which cards you can play and keep.

Dead Branch and Ice Cream let a quiet turn feed a loud one. Mummified Hand and Coffee Dripper buy tempo, one through free Power plays and one through energy.

A-tier relics

These relics are strong and come with a cost you must plan around. Philosopher’s Stone, Sozu, Cursed Key and Fusion Hammer each trade energy for a price. Take them when that price lands somewhere your run can spare.

Gambling Chip rescues a weak opening hand, and Shuriken with Kunai reward a turn full of attacks. Thread and Needle adds armor before your first card.

Best relics for beginners

A new player should favor relics that work without setup. Anchor, Blood Vial and Vajra help in every fight and ask nothing back. Bag of Marbles softens the first turn of a fight.

Skip relics that need a build you cannot see yet, such as Wrist Blade or a curse payoff. Learn the plain relics first, then chase the conditional ones.

Which relics to avoid

No relic is bad on its own. Some relics are bad in the deck you are holding. Tiny House spreads small gifts across a run, and the effect rarely decides a fight. Regal Pillow helps only when you reach a rest site with health to spare.

Darkstone Periapt and Ceramic Fish pay out in health or gold, and neither fixes a bad turn. Leave them on the shelf when a fight relic is on the table.

This tier list answers which relic deserves a slot. The relic index lists effects in plain language, and the early relic page covers what to grab in Act 1.

Next: Relic index and Early relic priorities.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best relic in Slay the Spire?

Snecko Eye, Runic Pyramid and Dead Branch top most lists, because each one changes how you build. The right answer still depends on the deck you already hold.

Are boss relics worth the downside?

Usually yes. Energy and card flow decide fights, and most boss relic costs can be planned around. Skip one when the cost breaks your run plan.

Which relic should I take from the first chest?

Take a plain value relic such as Anchor or Blood Vial, unless your deck already leans toward one specific relic.

Is Snecko Eye good in Slay the Spire?

Snecko Eye is strong in a deck holding expensive cards, because random costs stop mattering. It is weaker in a deck built on cheap, repeated plays.

What is the best energy relic?

Coffee Dripper and Fusion Hammer are the safest energy picks when your deck can live without rest sites or card upgrades.

Do relics matter more than cards?

Cards carry the fight, and relics decide how often you get to play them. Treat a relic as part of the deck, not as a bonus.

Should I take Calling Bell?

Calling Bell hands you extra relics and a curse. Take it when a card removal is within reach, and leave it when your deck is already tight.

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